Thanks everyone for revisiting some of the old stories. Happy Mardi Gras to you all!
Repostings from "Killer Rubboard" from many years ago that are just too good not to read again.
Tuesday, February 16, 2021
Chapter Ten: The Killer Sound of a Rubboard
Sunday, February 14, 2021
Mardi Gras, Homer Style
Well, the Krewe of Gambrinus has come a long way since this article was written in 2007. Award winning, mind bending, gut busting hilarious and joyful-- they are a treasure to our state and to those of us who love Mardi Gras. The Bossy Panty Twirlers are now know as the Bossy Panties, and while everyone is grounded this year from parades, they are a sight to see when you get a chance in the future. Karen Berger is working on an update, but for a blast from the past, here is what ran in Killer Rubboard back then, along with some spicy haiku added from Jennifer King.
Mardi
Gras, Homer Style
By Karen Berger, with haiku by Jennifer King
Karen Berger, along with her husband Steve McCasland, own the Homer Brewing Company and are founding members of the Krewe of Gambrinus, A Social Aid and Pleasure Club. They have been instigating Mardi Gras celebrations in Homer since 1995 and have taught hundreds of Alaskans of the traditions and history of the Carnival Season. Jennifer King owns her own business Fit for A King in Homer, but more importantly, plays trombone in the Bossy Pants Brass Band.
We are
hunkered down With the low light of winter A delicious time Beads
start to appear On people around Homer And downtown Fritz Creek
Our
Cosmic Hamlet Recognizes Mardi Gras In a special way………
|
It began with a mess-o-crawfish, a King Cake, a handful of beads and a
homemade cardboard crown in 1995. The crawfish came from Breaux Bridge,
Louisiana proudly
known as the "Crawfish Capital of the World". The King Cake was
from Paul's Pastry Shop in Picayune, Mississippi, a true
"Party in a Box". Steve had brought the beads with him from New
Orleans, via Dallas and Seattle, to Homer from a trip to the real thing circa
1986. Mind you, this is before the availability of the useful www and
finding our sources required phone calls to old friends and kept business
cards from past travels. With all of the authentic accoutrement we could
find, we gathered around as big a table as we could create, covered it in
newspaper and took to pinching tails and sucking heads.
It
was a first for everyone except Bob Folse (a Homer Coon-ass), Steve and me,
and the blended mix of folks just didn't quite know what to do with those
crustaceans. Luckily for them, a fisherman contributed some king crab legs
and all were happily cracking something. We passed out single strands of
beads for everyone and Steve gave his much shorter then story of the King
Cake. We sliced it up and passed it around, no one really grasping what it
would mean to "get the baby". Jerry Breese, a local bachelor, was
crowned our first "King of Homer Mardi Gras." He proudly wore his
poster board crown for the rest of the party and proceeded to take it to his
home and store it reverently in an enclosed, dust-free china cabinet.
(Something that most bachelors of Homer are not noted for having.) |
Your bright eyes meet mine Strands of beads adorn your chest You who wear the crown
|
Mardi Gras 1996 came and King Jerry was
working out of town and unable to return for his kingly duties as party host.
I was given access to his house where I was able to retrieve the ensconced
crown and Steve and I hosted the second party in our new, tiny house. This
was the year Steve began making his world famous gumbo. (Sorry, no links to
this recipe, but I'll tell you he stirs his roux for at least 4 hours. Yes,
by hand, 4 hours and always uses ghee as the oil and only in a cast iron skillet. That's all I can share or he
would have to kill me.) I, again, ordered the King Cake from Paul's Pastry Shop in Picayune, Mississippi. The masses came and the momentum was picking up. Some even wore masks. The cake was cut and passed around, whereupon I found myself holding up the little pink baby. Now I'm Queen! (It's good to be queen.) Honestly, I had no idea where that baby was in the cake….remember it comes from Paul's Pastry Shop in Picayune, Mississippi. They put the baby in it. That special King Cake Where the baby is hidden Who will get the slice?
1997 marked the first Winter Carnival parade for Homer Brewing Company and we
created a float with a throne made of kegs and a cauldron of "brew"
using dry ice. It sounded good, but didn't really work out too well. The
yet-to-be-named krewe on the float were dressed in empty "Bioriginal
Organic Malt" bags. We tossed candy root beer barrels to the crowd. It
was a start. The
party was held at the home of a friend that had moved to Homer and had held
the dubious distinction of being an elephant handler at the New Orleans Zoo.
He well understood Mardi Gras. The King Cake from Paul's Pastry Shop in
Picayune, Mississippi, was cut and passed around. All of the pieces had been
taken and still no baby. The last piece was passed to Steve … and he was
crowned king. We were beginning to wonder what juju was that baby had that
wouldn't allow us not to throw this party.
|
|
The cold time of year Feels right for making merry You and me and beer More
music and BEER We can't get enough, I fear Grog, nog, and more cheer!
|
|
Double queen you are No one could be more royal All down on one knee!
|
1999 brings the first parade with beads to toss. I had discovered School and
Carnival Supply (www.school-carnival.com) in
Gulfport, Mississippi. The helpful employee, Darlene, spent a great deal of
phone time with me as there is still no www. and the first real parade throw
was sent up for the Winter Carnival parade. The beads were a huge hit with
the crowd. The float is starting to show more effort, embellishment and
festooning in the afternoon that we spend out in the cold building it.
Whatever the theme that the Chamber of Commerce announces for the Winter
Carnival is somehow entwined into our float, but the theme of Mardi Gras is
always the basis for our float. This was the year of "Homer is Where The Heart Is" as noted by the heart on the palm of my waving hand. The photo that was run on the front page of the Homer News and I really did feel like "Queen for a Week" as it is a weekly publication. We won "Honorable Mention" from the parade committee, probably due to the amount of beads we tossed and bribed the judges with. I saw her bare breasts Today when the beads hit air I think she wants you
|
The party that year was once again at
our tiny house, with folks spilling out around a bonfire. Who says you can't
draw a crowd for a party on a Tuesday? Now I'm on my 4th cake from Paul's
Pastry Shop in Picayune Mississippi and by now they have all of my mailing
information on file. Bless their hearts. It is this year I make the royal
rule that if you have been king or queen once, you are exempt from taking a
piece of King Cake. I make this rule knowing that something has to be done to
get that baby out of our house, but I'm sure my ulterior motive is that I
just don't want anyone to ever "out royal" me. This is my only way
to rule the world! Remember the elephant handler from New Orleans? Yep,
that's right. That baby wasn't going to let someone that didn't understand
Mardi Gras and the importance of its traditions get it. It's a very smart
baby. King Jim Pitt. We are all quite pleased with our new king and as you can
see by his photo, he makes quite a statement as a human being. He really does
appear kingly. All
is well until that summer and the hurricane force winds of change blow around
King Jim and he has to move from the Cosmic Hamlet. He attempts to give me back
that poster board crown, but I declare, which I can because I am double
queen, he host a Lagniappe* (Lagniappe: an old Creole word for
"something extra." ) party. It
was held in our backyard in August. We call Paul's Pastry Shop in Picayune,
Mississippi, and order up another King Cake. Pass the cake and from King Jim
the crown passes to now King Ray. Who is this King Ray you ask? King Ray just
happens to be the hottest Cajun accordion player this side of Eunice,
Louisiana, and is the "Ray" in the Ray-Jen Cajun Band. What did I
tell you about that baby? |
|
That
baby must know It is that stuff, the music Makes us want to live
Makes
us want to go Go Go Go Go GO GO GO! But not anywhere
Music
and people Oh, and maybe food and drink Don't we have the life?
|
In honor of King Jim, he has since gone on to that great throne in the sky.
Bless his soul. King
Ray hosts the party and the krewe continues to grow. This is the first year
poetic license was taken with the King Cake and it proves that the magic is
in the baby, not the cake. The lucky piece is taken by Diana Carbonell. A
woman with intense community spirit and the amazing ability to create
anything out of paper mache. This is very important to float building. Oh,
and she just happens to be a professional chef. Queen Di is a welcome
addition to the Royal Family as we do like to eat. |
|
Oh, it's the season |
The Winter Carnival floats begin to take on a greater and grandiose look with
the use of the brewery's new space. We now have our own den*. (Den: A
large warehouse where Carnival floats are built and stored.) 2001 is the
year of "Back to the Future" and we build a parody of the movie,
2001, A Space Odyssey monolith. Ours is a "Mardilith" and Queen Di
demonstrates her amazing paper mache creativity with our first Bouef Gras*
graced the roof of the pulling van. (Bouef Gras: The fatted ox
or bull that has, since the Middle Ages, been a part of pre-Lenten
celebrations.) It symbolizes the last meat eaten before Lent. Queen Di
adds a proper throne to the Royal Cache of goods and looks stunning waving
her queenly wave from the rear of the float. Her photo graces the Anchorage
Daily News and we again win Honorable Mention for our parade float efforts. The
party that year was notable for its amount of great food, a new large house
(finally), a raging bonfire and live Cajun music. The momentum of the essence
of Mardi Gras is growing. Queen Di creates her own version of King Cake and
Steve makes his ever growing longer speech about the royal responsibilities
that come with the baby in the cake. "You can't just have the munchies
and grab for the cake. You must be prepared to host a party, participate in
the float building, ride on the float and generally represent our still
un-named krewe in a royal manner. For this, you will be treated like the king
or queen you are. Wishes and demands are generally met." The suspense
builds and the moment is met with slight confusion. The baby slips about and
is found lying helplessly on the floor by Tom Marakowitz, longtime employee
of Homer Brewing Company. No one is quite sure exactly which piece of cake it
fell from, but Tom's save crowns him King. Sitting on my stool The bass strap slung on my neck My sharp eyes see all
The parades are becoming centered around how many beads we can toss to the
crowds and how well we can bribe the judges with "special throws".
It seems to be working, no matter what the theme of the parade, we usually
receive "Honorable Mention" from the judging committee which nets
us a little cash from the nice sponsors at ACS and it goes into the bead
fund. Believe me, it is drop in the bead bucket, but it helps. Here comes that woman! The one who always wants beads The one with no bra!
Tom's party is unusual in that he lives on Crossman Ridge here in Homer and
it is an impressive hike into his neighborhood. His party is hosted by Regent
Phillips, his "next door" neighbor. Due to the remote location and
true winter weather most often experienced at Mardi Gras, the mix of the
party leaned heavily to the male persuasion. Everyone knows that a party
without a closer ratio of boys to girls can sometimes run amuck. Not that
this one did that, but I felt that when it came time to cut the King Cake,
again, from Paul's Pastry Shop in Picayune, Mississippi, a new double queen
royal ruling needed to be enacted. Along with the above mentioned
considerations, the party must be on the road system or at least a team of
snow machines be made ready to shuttle the fainter of heart. With this in
mind, and believe me the munchies were running rampant at this party, the
pool of cake takers was thinner than the crowd that was gathered. There were
a few scares, as the munchies overtook a few folks that did not live on the
road system took a piece. Again,
the baby knew just where to go. With the air as thick with suspense as it was
with other things, the baby found its way to Rick "Freedom" Cline.
This man was due for some kingly pleasures and privileges as he had spent the
last year standing by his wife that battled and won against breast cancer.
They were on the road to conception and during his reign Sharlene became
pregnant with twins. She was a beautiful sight, full bellied, at next year's
party at their lovely home on the road system. |
|
My head is swimming
With thoughts of you and of love On this Mardi Gras
|
The parade that year was noted with the addition of Bung and the name of our
Krewe. We are now "The Krewe of Gambrinus, a Social Aid and Pleasure
Club" and Bung is a character from the comic strip Wizard of Id. The
term "bung" is also associated with a beer keg as it is the hole in
the side of the keg that is used to gain entry into the vessel. Bung is made
to look like the comic character with his very large nose and pointy hat. Two
hands are made, one that looks like its tossing beads and the other is the
famous flag inspired "peace sign" hand. Again, made by the paper
mache talented Queen Di. This was 2002 and we were a country at war. We again
win Honorable Mention in the parade. |
|
It seems very odd That people are fighting wars When there is music
I
can't help but think We are so fucking lucky Think it every day
|
The next in line for the throne was Tarri Thurman. The baby felt it was time
to have another queen. Di and I were finding ourselves being taxed by all of
the feminine duties that come with the royal life. We are now up to 2003 and
this was the year that a new tradition was born. The Epiphany
party. It is tradition that King Cake be eaten on Epiphany as that
is the day that the Three Wise Men wandered upon the baby Jesus. In the history
of the king cake, it's design, a braided circle, comes from the supposed
route the Wise Men took making way to the baby Jesus. They were walking in
the sand and in an attempt to keep King Harrods's troops from finding the
Wise Men; they would walk in circles and odd twisting ways in order to throw
them off of their trail. January
6th, being Epiphany, began the new tradition of a Krewe gathering at the
brewery to eat beans and rice and anyone's leftover holiday treats. A king
cake is served, now traditionally made by Queen Di and the recipient of the
baby is responsible for throwing a party during the carnival season that runs
from Epiphany to Mardi Gras. Not a huge party, just a gathering of folks to
help while away the long nights of winter. All rules are off regarding the
taking of cake. It's a whole new tradition. Everyone takes cake. Let the new
tradition begin I announce, as double queen. The cake is cut and is passed
around by someone other than me. I'm enjoying myself at this party, not
having any prior encumbrances or titles; chatting with King Ray as the cake
makes the room. I reach for my piece, as it has been years since I've had a
taste of cake, where what do I find….the baby. This makes 5 pieces of cake
and 3 babies for me. What are the odds of that? That's it. I'm finished with
cake! This
is when Mardi Bowling began and for those that haven't been, I say, come on
down to Homer for some fun theme bowling at our Kachemak Bowling Alley. I
don't have to have this party every year, but it is so much fun, it just has
to happen and we usually have this the Friday night before the parade on
Saturday of Winter Carnival. You readers that have made it this far with me
are very much invited. Just come up with a bowling name and dress kind of
wacky. Think bowling alley cheese! |
|
The
Epiphany Is when we start to party Eat gumbo and cake
At
this first party We see who will be host For the next event
Any
fun will do Bowling, skiing, or a fire For all of our friends
|
We are now up to the King Tobias the Fair as our King for 2004. A humble
king, indeed. 2005 gave us King Cefferino Maryott, partner of Queen Di and
professional chef as well. I did mention how this Krewe likes to eat didn't
I? 2006
brought us full circle, as we have a relative of King Ray's, his beautiful
niece, Queen Emily, who will be reigning during the 2007 Mardi Gras season.
We needed some youth in the royal family. |
|
The queen is a doll My friend and partner in crime She is of my heart I
will sit and sew And make her a special crown To adorn her head
|
|
We have been talking About a band for so long Clarinet, trombone All
the horns are tuned I take a deep breath and turn Your nod says "Let's go"!
But
I am laughing! So hard I can't purse my lips Bye-bye embouchure
|
It is such a kick To get together often Ground full of new snow
The
drink on my lips The food on my tongue so sweet Ash Wednesday ... oh shit
|
|
From the entire Krewe of Gambrinus-Happy Mardi Gras! |
Friday, February 12, 2021
Cake Carnage and Making Babies
Baby Art by Andi Smythe |
"I got the baby!"
I love those plastic babies
that abound during Carnival season. If you ever found one lurking in your slice
of King Cake, then you know the feeling of being pretend king or queen for the
day, a fleeting yet satisfying feeling.
In this issue, we issued a challenge
to a variety of artist to redesign or being inspired by the King Cake baby in
some kind of design. But where did those babies come from? Like most traditions
around making babies, roots of the King Cake lie in ancient pagan roots. Sex
and fertility, it seems, are at the root of most traditions that last.
Celebration of Twelfth Night,
(January 6 on modern calendars, the Twelfth Night after Christmas) goes way
back to Pagan and ancient Roman times. The darkest part of the winter from
Winter Solstice to Twelfth night was a great time to celebrate, party and get a
little crazy for many cultures. Twelfth Night celebrations seem to have a
common ancestor in the King of Saturnalia from Roman times. This popularly
elected "King," also given the delightful name of the "Lord of
Misrule," presided over an old Roman festival that honored Saturn, the god
of agriculture and civilization. The elected royalty would party all night and
have a grand old time, and lead the crowd in unbridled fun and passion around
the bonfire. Back then, at the end of a year of reign, the faux royalty had to
sacrifice themselves to the death at that same bonfire in order to insure
fertility of the crops. Sometimes it's good that traditions change, if you know
what I mean.
I think Queens Emily and Linda
would agree.
But from those roots, those
early frivolities seem to share a theme with more modern times. They seem to
share the idea that someone is picked by chance to have the glory and the power
of being royalty. A-Queen-For-A-Day kind of thing. Choosing your mock royalty
by hiding a token in a cake goes way back. The Romans favored the tradition of
a fava bean or coin in a piece of cake. The fava bean was a symbol of fertility
for the Romans and an important dietary staple. He who found it was elected The
Bean King, The Lord Of Misrule, He Who Was Headed Toward The Funeral Pyre.
Well, of course, the Pagans
couldn't be allowed to run wild for too long before the Church got involved.
The Church knew that people had so much fun and folly during the mid winter
feasts that they would never give it up and get baptized. So like many of the
old rituals involving celebrations, the Church absorbed the masking, disguise,
the chaos and the reign of a Bean King into a sort of Judeo-Christian
tradition. In a great article on the history of the King Cake tradition, King
Cakes: A Rich Tradition, the author writes, " In Europe, from the 16th
century onward, Carnival came to be more or less accepted by Church fathers as
a necessary period of foolishness and folly before the fasting and abstinence
of Lent. Hence, Mardi Gras or Fat Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday, which
marks the beginning of Lent, was one of feasting."
Art by Steve Montooth |
This festival also retained its emphasis on masking and mock royalty. The Italians really got into the spirit and to this day, Carnivale and the exquisite Italian paper and clay masks are well known around the world. The Creole Society of the South adopted the party aspect of the whole Carnival idea with the same passion as the Italians and tapped into the Spanish custom of throwing grand balls where a king and queen were chosen. Parades started, krewes went wild and suddenly everyone was masking and having so much fun and forgetting to go to work that the authorities actually outlawed Mardi Gras for a while in New Orleans. That didn't last very long. (You know the drill. If beads are outlawed, then only outlaws will have beads.)
The Twelfth Night Celebration
signals the beginning to the Carnival season which last through Mardi Gras day.
One of the longest lasting krewes in this country, the Twelfth Night Revelers,
hosts the first Carnival ball on January 6th in New Orleans and names their
chosen king "the Lord of Misrule." It is actually quite a serious
affair but at the heart of the celebration, the TNR still poke fun at royalty
by taking on different roles, dressing up to mock royalty, and masking.
During its early years, TNR
embraced the tradition of a cake of randomly picking someone to be the King
(who would then choose his Queen) for the evening of frivolity and mayhem.
Turns out at many of the Twelfth Night Balls, when the partygoers got to the
choosing a piece of cake (adorned with a true crown destined for the person who
would find the token), it was a
"first-come-first-served-all-bets-off" fiasco. One article described
an early attempt at choosing the evenings royalty by finding the charm as
"cake carnage." The token was never found because the inebriated guests
made such a mess of the cake, so no queen was appointed that first official
ball. A delightful image, isn't it? Ladies and gents of the court with cake
crumbs and frosting staining those divine silk gowns and trousers. Now, the
piece containing the token is carefully guided toward the predetermined royalty
and entourage. No one gets hurt and no one is stuck with an outrageous
drycleaning bill.
Twelfth Night, January 6, is
the feast of the Epiphany, the night the Three Kings found Jesus in the stable and
brought him frankincense, gold and myrrh. The day also marks the beginning of
Carnival season. The token included in the cake developed to not only be a bean
or a pea or a coin, but sometimes a figurine. The French make collector
figurines, sometimes of royalty or court figures. In the United States during
the l1800's, often times the token was a pecan or a coin. Some plantation
owners were also known to put jewels in the cake. The little plastic baby
became popular in this county in the mid 1900s, of course after plastic was
invented and we made friends with China.
Beading by Linda Hearnes |
Like gumbo, every baker of a
King Cake seems to have his or her own preference about what it really should
be. The standard is made with a rich dough, more like a coffee cake than a
traditional cake and cover with sugar topic in the traditional Mardi Gras
color: purple representing justice, green representing faith, and gold
representing power. New Orleans bakers have love to experiment and make
chocolate, blueberry, cream cheese, pecan praline, even crawfish.
King Cakes, once used to choose
the life of the party, now also earned the religious symbolism. There are tons
of traditions and stories out there, and I don't know which ones are the true
and accepted ones. Some include that baby represents the baby Jesus, who is the
true King; the circular nature of the cake symbolizes the journey of the Wise
Men who traveled to find Him; and the braiding of the dough represents the
twists and turns the Wise Men took in order to hide their trail from King
Herod, who wanted to kill the newborn king to protect his own reign. The
purple, green and gold sugar that adorns every cake represents the official
Mardi Gras Colors, representing, Justice, Faith and Power.
The baby remains one of the
most endearing images of the Carnival Season. Let's get serious--- babies are
cooler than beans or pecans. Now you can find baby figures that are pink,
Caucasian, black, metallic blue, green gold and purple, glow in the dark
cherubs with wings, and like most things Mardi Gras, are made in China. They
are not just hidden away in cakes. The ubiquitous babies adorn necklaces,
beads, tiaras, and jewelry as part of the celebration. The customs keep
developing and keep changing. But the basics of the tradition remain.
You got your Bean King. Your
Lord of Misrule. Your hiding behind a mask. Your cake carnage. Your human
sacrifice. The king and queen expected to lead the willing into mayhem, fun and
excess and espirit de corps. Your royalty chosen by chance. And all
of it represented in the little bare-naked amorphous form of the King Cake
baby. An endearing symbol of Mardi Gras if there ever was one.
Babies. That's what I'm talking
about. And if you are lucky
enough to shout, "I got the baby!" this season, all hail to you. See
you at the bonfire.
Tuesday, February 9, 2021
Conclave by Joe Karson
This is not really a Mardi Gras story and it was never included in Killer Rubboard, but I can't help it. I read this story around the same time as Killer Rubboard was being published and loved it. I hounded Joe Karson for it until he gave it up to include here. Food is an important part of celebrating the season and that's good enough for me.
CONCLAVE
Pope Ken I was still lying in state
inside St. Peter’s Basilica. Cardinal Lovano had just paid his last respects
and now he joined the other cardinals at San Damaso Courtyard, the lawn outside
the palace where the new pope would reside. This was the second sede vacante, period between popes, in
the past year. Ken’s reign as Supreme Pontiff was brief by design, but the
cardinal had hoped for a little more rest before returning to his Vatican
duties. At their last conclave, the College of Cardinals had become hopelessly
deadlocked, and, following a time-honored procedure, elevated their eldest
member to the Throne of St. Peter. Ken, born Francis Kenneth Dolan, was
eighty-nine and thus became the first American pope. Despite the historic
precedent, his six-month papacy was as brief and unremarkable as anticipated.
Still, like all popes before him, Ken I brought a few harmless
innovations to the
“Extra omnes! Extra omnes! Everyone
out!” Cardinal Lovano listened to the command that for centuries has heralded
the start of the secret conclave. He watched the Swiss Guard struggle with
their billowing costumes as they shut the gate to St. Peter’s Square. Funny, he
was starting to like those new hats. The shadow of the enormous gate fell
across the cardinal’s bright red cassock. Dutifully, he wheeled his Il Fumo Deluxe
charcoal grill to its assigned position in the courtyard. The chili cook-off to
select the next pope was officially underway.
*
Cardinal Lovano watched the other
cardinals as they stoked their grills and hunched busily over their worktables.
Nearest to him were the Americans. The cranky old Pole from Chicago and the
dapper Boston Irishman didn’t have a prayer. Their mothers had still cooked for
them until the women were too feeble to stuff a kishke or peel a potato. Neither of the Americans knew how to boil
an egg. Besides, the priests of the Curia Romano, the Vatican bureaucrats who
were doing the judging, would never choose another American. Ken I had easily
settled the issue of American popes for the next millennium. At least the issue
of North American popes.
There were still the Latinos. Cardinal Lovano figured that the Central
Americans and their
Then there were the French. In a culinary conclave, it would seem only
natural to give the French a little edge. Cardinal Lovano knew better. The
French contingent had passed by with a dazzling collection of provisions and
utensils. This, thought Cardinal Lovano, will be their downfall. They would
undoubtedly produce a fine dish, but it would be five shades of pastel, ruffled
and truffled and fluffed into a mousse, then floated in a hearty gel of
daffodil nectar. The French were good but chili just wasn’t their game. The
Curia would be looking for something alla
zappatora—simple and nourishing. They wanted Verdi and the French would
give them Debussy. Also, the Curia knew catechismically that the only good
things about French cooking had been stolen from
Politics would also keep the Spaniards out of the running. Like their
brethren across the Atlantic, the Spanish clergy had become too liberal for the
stodgy old priests of the
Cardinal Lovano scanned the courtyard, searching out his countrymen. The
Italian cardinals had been scattered about, according to the Curia, to keep
them from collaborating. The old priest had to laugh. The Inquisition would
have been unable to extract a recipe from any of these men. No, the Italians
had insisted on being separated so they could mix their ingredients in pectore— secretly. Of course,
separating Italians when they cooked was always a good idea. Cardinal Lovano
remembered a Feast of Ste. Cecillia when his mother and an aunt had argued in
the kitchen over how many onions to stuff into the porchetta, the suckling pig. His aunt relented; but when his mother
presented the succulent entree to the table, Zia Lydia grabbed it and threw it out an open window. Cardinal
Lovano had no problem cooking away from his fellow Italians.
Paoletti, the Florentine, was set up near the gate. Cardinal Lovano
watched the man work at his cutting board. He had a reputation as a good cook
and his native region produced some of the best beef in the world. But he was a
Tuscan and all Tuscans were mangiafagioli—bean-eaters.
They couldn’t scramble an egg over there without tossing in a handful of favas.
The Church was still officially split by the Bean Schism—Ken I had introduced
this dilemma and left it as a Mystery of the Faith—but Cardinal Lovano was sure
he knew where the judges stood. Strict traditionalists in all other matters, he
figured that they were anti-fagioli
to a man. Poor Cardinal Paoletti would undoubtedly load his otherwise excellent
chili with beans and blow himself right out of contention.
Cardinal Lovano located his old friend, Bellini, without even looking.
He smelled him. Cardinal Bellini was from
The cardinal from
On a bit of high ground, beyond
And there was Cardinal Reda of
Cardinal Lovano looked out past the courtyard. The sun was directly
overhead, shining down on the Tomb of St. Peter, and already the square was
nearly filled. All morning long people had thronged through the Porta Santa
Anna and under the Arch of the Bells to be close to the historic event. The
noise was becoming incredible. L’Osservatore
had leaked the details of the conclave, so the Swiss Guard was busy with
overzealous Romans who tried scaling the courtyard wall with recipes and
bundles of spice. The civil police broke up brawls between militant groups of fagioli and anti-fagioli. Fortunately, most of the crowd just stood patiently
in front of the Sistine Chapel where they had been promised a decision by
nightfall. Coals from the chosen grill would be put in the celebrated fireplace
to produce the puff of smoke announcing a new pope. But that was still a long
way off. Right now, there was work to be done.
The cardinal diced his onions then measured them carefully. It had to be right. He had always thought of onions as social vegetables. Alone, they could be bitter, but in a stew they were mellow and sweet.
He dropped the onions into the pot. Next, he prepared the garlic. Garlic was certainly the most Catholic of vegetables. He had met Anglicans and Episcopalians who recoiled like vampires at the slightest hint of the pungent bulb. There were Lutherans who had never heard of it. For old Lovano, garlic was a rare and intoxicating perfume—and it was as such that it had to be applied. As with the onions, using just the right amount was everything. Bay leaf and dried, sweet red pepper, of course, would accompany the garlic. These three ingredients were the Holy Trinity that brought the savoriest flavor out of all meats. Cardinal Lovano had learned to always use them together. When he added these to the veal shank searing at the bottom of his pot, an aroma arose that caused more than a few of his colleagues to turn their heads. One of the Americans, the one opening cans of Hormel and praying, suddenly lifted his nose like a bird dog. The cardinal reached into the pot and turned his veal. By using the whole shank, with the bone, he added marrow to the broth. This was the flavor of his mother’s osso buco and there was nothing richer in the whole world. The Lovanos were from
The beef Cardinal Lovano chose was from the
Now came the peppers and tomatoes. Cardinal Lovano had selected three
varieties of pepper: plump green bells, mild and fragrant; medium-strength
yellow wax peppers; and fiery red Serranos—the same hot peppers sold by street
venders during the Feast of St. Gennaro and consumed by young men to show their
bravery. But he did not use the Serranos to make his chili all ‘arrabiata, or “rabid,” as was the style in some parts of the
country. He used just enough of them produce a seductive nip. They would keep
the mouth watering for another spoonful without overwhelming the whole dish.
This was very important. Every ingredient had to serve its role, but no more.
The tomatoes that the cardinal chose were San Marzano plums, ripe little
beauties that smelled of summer. These had the full flavor and thick flesh that
could stand up to the heat of the pot. He mixed in the peppers and tomatoes
along with a dash of rose-scented
After everything had simmered together for a while, Cardinal Lovano checked his creation. It looked and smelled just right. The time had come to add the vino. He uncorked a bottle of mellow red wine known in his native
Back at his table, the cardinal carefully unwrapped a crusty little
nugget. He had been saving this treasure for a special occasion and now it had
arrived. The finely aged cheese barely seemed edible. But when he began shaving
the stone-like morsel into a bowl, his nose was treated to a feast of spicy
aromas. Each magical scrape of the grater brought the cheese more to life. The
cardinal lowered his face to the bowl, savoring the resurrection. This sharp,
spirited pecorino romano playing over
the top of his chili would be just the final touch it required.
Cardinal Lovano carried the cheese to his pot and opened the lid again.
The other cardinals, who had been joined by two more judges, pressed closer.
When he sprinkled on his cheese, the bouquet of delicious fumes that had been
hovering over the pot burst into full bloom. Old Fontanella cried out, Santissimo Padre—Holy Father!” Cardinal
Lovano bowed his head and closed his eyes. The cardinal from
(c) Joe Karson 2020